Isle of Mull
Visiting the Isle of Mull
Early morning at Oban Ferry Pier. With valid ferry tickets in our pockets and after a warm stop in our breakfast room, we are ready to check whether the adventure can begin. As always, the ferry traffic is extremely punctual and very friendly. We leave the vehicle safely next to campers, rental cars, Oban locals and the lorries whose drivers want to return to the warehouses on the island of Mull after deliveries on the mainland and sit down at the end of the ferry. Watching the town of Oban appear smaller and smaller at the stern inspires adventure. Time to go to the bow side, but not before we have taken a warming coffee and a cup of tea in the on-board restaurant. The island of Kerrera and the seal islands behind it quickly pass by. When the view widens to the south and north, we look north and survey the Loch Linnhe and the island of Lismore within it. The Lismore lighthouse at the front of Eilean Musdile gives us the first photographic highlights of the day’s journey.
The 45-minute crossing is very entertaining, and soon we will be driving along the coast of Mull with Duart Castle in our sights as the first stop upon arrival on the island.
The entrance to the port is sized to accommodate the ferry. Most days, the morning ferry arrives fully booked. We can disembark.
First, we are going to visit Duart Castle. Traces of human habitation dating back to the Iron Age have been found on this beautiful piece of earth. In addition to this spectacular location, the entrances to Loch Linne, Loch Etive and the beginning of the Firth of Lorne, which runs south from the Sound of Mull, were once controlled at this part by Chief Lachlan Lubanach Mclean. Built in the 14th century and used until around 1715 under the rule of Mclean Dank, the Duart Castle owes its current accessibility to its extensive reconstruction in 1911. In mid-October 2020, further important maintenance work was completed.
We highly recommend an excursion to Duart Castle. We dive into a world of long ago where mighty rulers such as the one who ruled over large parts of Mull could have such a fortification built according to their ideas, called it their own and bequeathed it to successive generations. That gets under your skin.
If you were not lucky enough to see dolphins next to the ferry in the narrow area between Lismore and Isle of Mull, the Castle may be of help. Duart Castle is part of the Hebridean Whale Trail and a therefore good lookout, maybe you will get lucky. White-tailed eagles can also be easily observed on days with a good climb wind!
After quenching our thirst for history, we drive the short way back to Craignure to drive along the north coast. Some parking spaces on the street draw your attention to the rather desolate, uninhabited mainland opposite. Fish farms and moor landscapes are captivating for taking photos even when poorly lit. When you drive past Salen, don’t miss out on the two imposing shipwrecks close to the coastal road.
When you enter Tobermory, you should immediately stop and explore the place on foot. Whether you choose to linger at the Tobermory Distillery, stroll along the colourful row of houses along the harbour, browse the small boutiques from the shop window to the innermost part of the store or stop for lunch, time flies by.
Your curiosity about how the coastal road to Tobermory continues will be piqued and you’ll want to drive on in search of the answer. The views on the drive to the west coast of Mull are varied and allow you to enjoy single track roads over serpentine ones. So, the afternoon will be filled according to which clouds cover the sun or which cast the perfect light on the landscape.
After the photogenic Glengorm Castle on the route to the northernmost point of the island, the road continues along the coast via the B8073. From Calgary Beach over the lonely coastal road towards the west and to the southernmost course, then changing to the south coast at Kilnian. The island of Ulva is now in sight, and the waterfalls (Eas Fors Waterfall being the most famous) come into view on the mountain slopes. Along the Loch Na Keal the road goes to Killiechronan. The crossing of the island reveals how harsh the climate on the island is and shows the mountains in their true perspective, size and grandeur. Upon your return to the ferry port, Craignure seems small and insignificant compared to the vastness of nature surrounding it. You’ll feel as though you’ve been far, far away from the mainland when, at day’s end, you re-enter the warmly lit harbour of Oban.
Tip 1: The ferry schedule is displayed on the CalMac website. The early morning outbound ferry and the late evening inbound ferry make a good tour (like the one in the blog entry). Look for Oban-Craignure. The crossing takes 45 minutes, and the ferry is loaded 30 minutes before departure. It is recommended to reserve tickets in advance via the website, as the ferries are quickly booked out.
Tip 2: If you opt for a leisurely day without a car, a visit to Duart Castle by bus from Craignure is an option. Information about the CalMac ferry can be found directly on the Duart Castle website. Please contact us at reception. We are happy to help you organise this day for you.
