Kerrera
A day trip to Kerrera
Do you fancy a leisurely day on a peaceful isle with gentle green coves at its shores, sheep grazing alongside the sea and fern-covered hills leading towards its centre? In this blog post, we introduce you to this little piece of paradise located just south of Oban, separated from the Scottish mainland only by the quietly glittering Sound of Kerrera. I will share with you some tips and information for your visit.
The isle of Kerrera beckons you from its position overlooking the impressive natural harbour of Oban, offering protection to the city from the westerly winds. After an energising breakfast in the picturesque town, we set off for the Kerrera Ferry Pier. Following Gallanach Street, we arrive by car from Oban just in time to find the last parking spot at the pier – otherwise, we could have parked along the road. We always arrive a good quarter of an hour before departure of the ferry, so there’s time to put on suitable footwear (the hike can lead us through a bit of marshy terrain) and sun protection as the sky is clear blue.
The ferry arrives on time, and on this day, as on any other day, a maximum of 12 people can board for the first crossing. The rest of the visitors wait patiently for their turn. The crossing takes no more than five minutes, and during this short wait we will amuse ourselves by watching as various items, including food and drinks, are prepared for loading and transport by ferry to the island.
Soon it is our turn to board the ferry for the short voyage. With a glance back at the city of Oban, we pass the slightly rocking sailboats and turn towards the north. By a prehistoric geological fluke of nature, the present island of Kerrera was spared the fate of being an insignificant peninsula off the Oban harbour and set into the sea. Now these waters serve as a place for countless beautiful sailboats to anchor. Gazing into the distance towards the sun, we see the waters open to the sea between the islands of Seil and Mull. With its imposing surfaces, Mull lies to the south of the island of Kerrera, and its Munros tower over it. The 5-minute crossing ends before we know it and with barely a wave to be felt.
Since there are only 12 people on the ferry per crossing, cyclists and hikers are well spaced apart as they disembark throughout the day. Some will start on their tours by turning turn to the south while others will head north. Today, we choose the Gylen Castle Circuit – the path leads us along the coast and invites us to pause every now and then to admire the beautiful surroundings. The infrastructure has been planned mindfully for this; anyone looking for a place to take a break will find one. Others may soon make the acquaintance of one or two of the local sheep.
We pause at the memorial plate, set in 2006, to commemorate the enormous developments in telecommunications and become aware of the importance of the transatlantic cable (colloquial for fax) in the past.
Before we move inland, we scan the coast and the island of Seil, near which the small offshore island of Insh and the Garvellachs archipelago can be easily spotted. With good visibility you can see Scarba, Jura and Colonsay on the horizon. Then a gentle right turn and the path rises slightly to overcome the nearly 150-meter hill that slopes up before us. Here we pass the first of several teapot signs posted along the path by the kind owners of at the Kerrera Teagarden and Bunkhouse. Feeling a boost of self-assuredness, we continue along in the right direction. The path is easy to walk and leads us almost effortlessly to the summit of the hill. The ‘intermediate’ teapot sign comes into sight. The time indicated on the ever useful walkhighlands website is correct as always.
Our lovely visit to Kerrera Tea Garden and Bunkhouse does justice to the beautiful teapot signs that guided our way. First, we are fascinated as we observe the outdoor workplace. Just minutes prior to our arrival, the owners shaved the wool from a few of the sheep. But in this is rather a pastime of the owners. Their dedication is to be here for the hungry and thirsty guests. Delicious cooking aromas help to guide our approach to the beautiful and carefully maintained teahouse. Today’s visit falls within a somewhat relaxed phase in terms of Coronavirus measures, but nevertheless restaurants are still facing unprecedented challenges. But with a simple and efficient setup, the owners, Aideen and Martin, greatly impress us with the ingenious rethinking they have done on their processes. Their line-up system positions each guest to admire the splendid array of flowers in the garden. We stand along the garden fence, which is marked to indicate the two-meter intervals necessary for social distancing. Soon we are seated at benches and tables in the meadow, situated at a slight elevation from that of the house itself and basking in the midday sun. We sip from cups of steaming tea held in both hands and enjoy a delicious slice of homemade ‘lemon cake with a drizzle’. A perfect and sublime resting place! Next time, we will plan to hike in the opposite direction so as not to miss their Stovies – one of their popular dishes renowned for being as tempting as their cake! We also admire how the guest toilets have been designed in their kind and convincing way – relatively unadorned but with attention to both detail and practicality.
Rested, strengthened and ready to visit the truly wonderful sights of this island, we continue our walk. Along the way, we encounter several cows who greet each and every pedestrian with a friendly yet stoic calm so as not to reveal their secrets about what we will see beyond the next turn. And then just as we come to believe a more beautiful scene can only be dreamed of, Kerrera reveals its jewel! Before us lies Gylen Castle with the Firth of Lorne flowing majestically behind it, and our angle of approach could not provide a more scenic view.
Perhaps a few words from us about Gylen Castle, summarised from various sources: We certainly do understand why the McDougall Clan, with its power stretched across Argyll, had taken hold of all important strategic outlooks to secure their land towards the open sea, had Gylen Castle built and took it into possession in 1582. It still stands above the horseshoe bays – heroic and proud –and guards the land from the open sea. Only a short time later, in 1647, General Leslie, a Swede aligned with the Protestant Church of Scotland, decided to burn down the castle. Unfortunately, this could not be prevented at that time. Archaeological investigations have uncovered evidence of rare stucco plaster still well preserved from the old times even until today. Personally, we would have recommended to the General to simply inhabit the castle and maintain this brilliant craftsmanship. It is to be appreciated that in 2006, as part of the renovation of destroyed buildings by the Clan McDougall, Historic Scotland (active until 2015) in cooperation with supporters from around the world had raised funds sufficient for the castle ruins to be secured and established as a heritage conservation landmark. The archaeologically significant dating stone with the engraving of the 1582 completion reveals that Gylen Castle was built by Duncan McDougall who intended it in concept to be paired with Dunollie House at the northern entrance to Little Bay (Oban).
From this viewpoint we are struck by the majesty and splendour to be found in the South East region of Scotland: first the shores of the mainland, then the island of Seil connected by the ‘bridge over the Atlantic’ and further west the islands of Scarba, Jura, Seil, Garvellachs, Insh – maybe you can even see as far as Colonsay on a day offering maximum field of vision. The Peninsula Ross in front of the main island of Mull with its Ben More will conclude the panorama. Simply fantastic!
Although it had rained well recently, we choose the way along the small bay under the castle ruins as we take our leave so as to prolong the good views of Gylen Castle. You must be careful that you don’t pull out a shoe in the muddy ground, but with a little caution it is possible to continue with both shoes on. Other visitors chose the way back to the Teahouse, and from there back on the dry path. You may wish to base your choice on the on the humidity at the time of your visit.
Almost wistfully, we leave Gylen Castle behind us. After an easy hike past a strange-looking shelter used on Kerrera to protect humans and animals alike, we see the next motivating highlight justifying this trail. To watch the ferries as they return from the Outer Hebrides and the island of Mull while seemingly hiking all the way back to Oban an unforgettable experience and a must-do!
Before you go back to catch the ferry, you can still discover culturally important points of the island.
For refreshments, be sure to check out Ardentrive Farm. The pink bathtub simply compels you to pause and cannot be overlooked – and it is easily recognised from the other side as well.
For those who appreciate opportunities for cultural and social interaction, the old school building is worth a stop. A community centre has been maintained here since 2019. Many other projects, especially those aiming to preserve the island’s infrastructure, are funded by donations to the Isle of Kerrera Development Trust. The fact that there are still no paved roads and no permanent shops, hotels or pubs on Kerrera makes the island with its 34 (as of 2019) inhabitants an unforgettable and worthy visit. The two communities in the south and north of the island – as well as the island’s farms – are understandably merged into one municipality nowadays. The closest thing to a traffic jam ever found on the island is caused by the spontaneous mood of the sheep. It really is important to get to know them too.
We feel thankful for this day spent in simplicity on the island. The three- to four-hour hike around the southern part of the island has been a pleasant one. We join those waiting to leave the island (again, in groups of 12) by ferry and enjoy this last little rest on this peaceful island. This has been such a day for nature, mindfulness, hospitality and perfect harmony between nature and the local community.
We like to come back often and are glad that much remains unchanged, at least within our lifetimes.
From the Manor House, you can easily reach the Ferry Pier to Kerrera Island by car. Please also contact us at reception if you prefer to leave your vehicle in our parking lot and travel by taxi the short distance of partly narrow road. Please be careful when traveling on foot from the hotel to the ferry (20–30 minutes), as the road is very narrow and has several blind turns.
If you are planning a visit to the island of Kerrera, please don’t forget to let us know. We are happy to help you with this trip and would be happy to share our personal recommendations with you. We are certain that in the evening you will return to enthusiastically tell us about your day on Kerrera.
Tip 1: By taxi, the trip to the Ferries Pier on Gallanach Road costs £5. On most days, the ferry departs every half an hour and costs £1.60 (£3.20 return). The ferry timetable is displayed on the CalMac website. Search for Gallanach-Kerrera.
Tip 2: Choose to walk the trail in opposite directions. If you can tolerate a short ascent at the beginning, you’ll have the opportunity to break for lunch at Lower Gylen Tea Garden where you will enjoy the simple but fine cuisine. The way back to the ferry is only a little more than an hour from there.
Tip 3: Contact Tea Garden and Bunkhouse if you want to pre-book for lunch. This is highly recommended if you would like to be able to choose freely from their menu or if you are a larger group. In season they are open daily from 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (on reduced days from 12:00 to 14:00). Let us know if we can make the reservation for you.
Tip 4: The walkhighlands website is an excellent resource with detailed descriptions, maps and photos of a many walks in Scotland.
